Our many readers are very knowledgeable about luxuries. Lorre White (The Luxury Guru) loves to help expand our knowledge about all types of interesting luxuries and their role in our history.
The History of the Burano Lace
Legend has it that a young Venetian seafarer brought his beloved a seaweed from the far, distant seas. As she wanted to preserve the memento forever, she painstakingly copied the delicate outline and patterns using her needle and thread.
The Production of Burano lace in the
Venetian
Republic
reached its heyday in the 16th century. The impulse for the expansion had been given to this traditional type of needlework by Duchess Morosina Morosini, Doge Morosini’s wife. She was so fond of Burano lace that, at the end of the 14th century, she established a workshop employing 130 lace makers. The lace produced in part found its way into the Duchess’s personal wardrobe, but much of it was presented as a gift to her friends in the greatest courts of
Europe
.
Upon the Duchess’s death, the workshop was closed, but the lace making art lived on through the labours of the best lace makers. In the course of time, the fame of Burano lace spread throughout
Europe
and was very much in demand. On his coronation day, Louise XIV of
France
was said to wear an original and very precious lace collar made by the Burano lace makers in two years of patient needlework.
The Venetian art of lace making was so valued in beyond the Alps that Catherine de Medic and Minister Colbert persuaded some lace makers from Burano to move to
France
. The Royal Manufactory at Rheims produced “Punto In aria,” the typical Burano needle lace, under the direction of Marie Colbert, the Minister’s niece, and soon it numbered 200 Venetian lace makers among the much more numerous French workers.
In 1665, “Punto in Aria” became “Point de France,” and a strong competitor for Burano lace. In spite of all efforts, French lace never equaled Venetian needlework, the Venetian had turned lace making into an art, the French into an industry. Like many other French products, also lace was protected with heavy duties levied against foreign products, so that the export trade of Venetian lace into
France
was hampered. French taxes notwithstanding, the art prospered so much that at the beginning of the 18th century the Venetian workshop"Ranieri e Gabrieli" was employing 600 workers. In 1797, with the fall of the
Serenissima
Republic
, also lace-making came to a stop, and the craft was practiced only within the confines of the home.
The winter of 1872 was particularly cold, and for the economy of Burano, based exclusively on fishing, the season was a real disaster. It was then that Countess Adriana Marcello and the Hon. Paolo Fambri revived lace making mainly to provide relief for the destitute population of Burano.
The heritage of the golden age of Burano lace had jealously been guarded by an 80-year-old woman, Vincenza Memo, called Cencia Scarpariola, and she disclosed the secrets of lace making to a primary schoolteacher, Anna Bellorio d’Este, who in turn taught them to her daughters and other girls. Needle lace featuring “Punto in Aria” and “Punto Rosa” became popular once again and a school was started, and soon lace making became the main resource for the Island al Burano. Through the offices of Countess Adriana Macello, many noble ladies of that period, such as the Princess of Saxony-Weimer, the Duchess of Hamilton, Countess Bismark, Princess Metternich, the Queen of the Netherlands, and Queen Margherita of Italy, to name but a few, commissioned important work from the school, which in 1875 gave work to over 100 lace makers. Countess Adriana Marcello died on 23 January, 1893, and her work and charities were continued by her son, Count Girolamo Marcello, and the school thrived until 1915, when World War I broke out, slowing down the demand for Burano lace. After a few years, orders began to flow in again, many from foreign markets, but also from the Italian Government During World War II, and in the following years, the school experienced some ups and downs, until it was finally closed in 1972.
The New York Times
TRAVEL
SHOPPER'S WORLD; Burano's Legacy: Artistry In Lace
The New York Times/Aug.16, 1987 Mark E. Smith
By ANNE MARSHALL ZWACK; Anne Marshall Zwack is a writer who lives in
Florence
.
Published: Sunday,
August 16, 1987
Burano is the poor relation of the Venetian Lagoon. The tourists who throng St. Mark's Square in
Venice
or take a boat to Murano to watch craftsmen blow arabesques in glass often pass by the little island community of fishermen. Yet Burano is the cradle of lace making in
Italy
, and it is also the place where we found some of the best fresh seafood in the whole Laguna Veneziana.
The fishermen's houses are like those of a child's drawing: two-story cobalt blue, russet red, turquoise or grass green houses lining the canals, where every day is washing day and where fishing boats dawdle cocooned in nets that are used to gather soft-shell crabs. More nets skim across the mirrorlike surface of the lagoon where more fishing boats are moored to spindly poles, their reflection wriggling into the water. The grandly termed cathedral has a leaning tower, something that apparently causes little concern in a part of the world where even the bell
tower
of
St. Mark
's collapsed into a heap of rubble in 1902.
The wives of the Burano fishermen once sat mending nets to fill the anxious hours as they waited for their husbands to come home with the day's haul. This led, about five centuries ago, to lace making. The fine net background of this kind of lace is still called Burano stitch or tulle, looking as it does like a gossamer fishing net. Today fewer and fewer women want to perfect a painstaking art at wages of little more than a dollar an hour. Burano does, however, have a lace making school where courses in lace making are free to whoever wants to learn: 600 hours divided into two periods in spring and fall, and the results are impressive. The students' work pales, however, before some of the lace exhibited in the museum that belongs to the school, some of which is so exquisite that without a magnifying glass the stitches are practically invisible.
The lace making school in Burano was founded at the end of the 19th century - when lace making was in its heyday and everything from cradles to corsages was draped in cascading frills of fine lace - by Andriana Marcello, a countess whose family is still actively involved in the school.
At the same time, another Italian countess was founding a school, the Emilia Ars in Bologna, while in the Friuli region an American, Cora Slocomb from New Orleans, married to the Italian Count di Brazza, brought a New World briskness to teaching young women from the region how to produce lace that would be sold all over the world. Much of the work from this school, together with other lace of the period, is on display in the
Correr
Museum
in
Venice
.
Eleven white-aproned lace makers, with their feet propped on the traditional wooden stools, still work in the Burano school, and their lace can be bought or commissioned directly from them.
It takes 6 women, each doing a different stitch, about 20 days to finish a small cloth for a tray or a lace collar, which is justifiably expensive at about $200. Mary Costantini, one of the lace makers and teachers in the school, demonstrated just how difficult it is to tear Burano lace, which will stand up to being washed by machine.
There are basically two kinds of lace making, bobbin lace and needlework lace; the latter is what the women in Burano do. The design is etched onto a wad of five layers of paper that are ripped away once the work is finished, leaving only the cobweb of lace. The designs range over several centuries and the nuances of stitching are infinite. If a rose has five petals, each one will have a different stitch.
One can buy anything from an initialed handkerchief with a lace corner ($28) to a tablecloth - about 110 by 63 inches made entirely of lace that took 30 lace makers 3 years to complete - for $100,000. For everyday use, a round tablecloth with a lace design in the center, and lace trim round the hem together with 12 napkins would cost $3,400.
SFERRA FINE LINENS 115TH ANNIVERSARY
The Burano lace making tradition is carried on by luxury linen company Sferra Fine Linens, who chose their Burano lace-embellished bedding to celebrate the company’s 115th Anniversary
The older we get the more we appreciate our beds and all the bedding that goes with it. At the end of the day, that one fine moment when we get ready to retire and get comfortable becomes more and more an event that we truly enjoy. That leads to the fact that we are more aware of all the choices and materials that go in and on a bed. Sferra Fine Linens has created bedding so precious that one might hesitate to lie on it. The Burano sets - each comprising of one ivory fitted sheet, one ivory flat sheet, and two pillowcases - are made from 1,020-thread-count, Italian-woven Egyptian cotton. They incorporate Point de Venice lace, a centuries-old style of embroidery that the company used in its earliest products, when it was based in
Venice
,
Italy
. The bedding is named for the island near
Venice
, where women have been making this type of lace since the 16th century. It takes about four months to make enough lace for one whole bedding ensemble. Sferra does not really know how many sets they will be able to make. Hooker and his brother-in-law, George Matouk, bought Sferra in 1977 from the Sferra family, making Point de Venice lace their art. They went back to Burano and found four elderly women who agreed to make the lace exclusively for Sferra. That heritage began in 1891 in
Venice
, where Gennaro Sferra created elaborate cuffs and collars, some of which included the Point de Venice lace. By the early 1900s, Sferra had a factory in
Venice
and, owing to his transatlantic travels, a wealthy clientele in the eastern
United States
. When his sons, Albert and Enrico, took over the family business in the 1940s, they added table and bed linens to its offerings. Today Sferra Fine Linens is introducing the Burano bedding as it celebrates its 115th anniversary. With proper care, including laundering by hand, a Burano set could last as long as the company has. It is made to be passed down from one generation to the next. Because this bedding includes the Burano lace, Sferra has priced this set starting at $14,000.
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