Officially called the Ladies First
Chronograph, Ref. 7071 shook up the scene when it was released but the
men who had been patiently waiting for the new calibre inside – CH
29-535 PS – would have to play second fiddle to their wives…
By Ashok Soman
Photography by EK Yap
Patek Philippe Ref. 7071G-011. The 18k white gold case works
exceptionally well with the diamond setting, blue dial and blue
alligator strap
In the heady days of 2007, forever a touchstone for the watch
industry, brands went in search of the illusive serious women
collectors. It is not that women do not buy watches or even that they do
not buy luxury watches but they are not the steady and dependable
presence that men are in this area. To illustrate the point, simply look
through the back catalogues of watches from Christie’s, Sotheby’s and
virtually any other auction house and see how many feminine pieces are
on offer.
Watch expert and journalist Gisbert L. Brunner even notes that
watches set with gemstones tend to fare more poorly in holding their
value than plain Jane versions, so to speak. Why should any watch suffer
a reduction in value for sporting gemstones you might wonder.
This becomes even more curious when you consider that watch retailers
around the world regularly deal with female clients, including those
interested in typical collectors’ brands such as Patek Philippe, Rolex
and Panerai. It is telling though that by and large, these collectors
are looking for men’s watches, and that Panerai does not even make
dedicated collections for women. For its part, women’s watches from
Rolex are merely smaller versions of existing models.
In 2009 though, Patek Philippe threw down the gauntlet with a variant
of the timepiece you see here, Ref. 7071R in 18k rose gold, indicating
that the Geneva-based firm believes that women too are interested in
fine watchmaking and in watches made specifically for them.
Officially called the Ladies First Chronograph, 7071 shook up the
scene when it was released – the manually wound calibre CH 29-535 PS
replaces the legendary CH 27-70 –but the men who had been patiently
waiting for it would have to play second fiddle to their wives…

With
the introduction of the manually wound calibre CH 29-535 PS, the reign
of legendary CH 27-70, based on a Lemania movement, is officially over.
The rounded edges of the chronograph pushers add a subtle but elegant
touch
The question remains though, what are women collectors looking for in
a watch specifically made for them, other than annoying their husbands
slightly? While for observes and writers, such a question may remain
academic or rhetorical, worthy of dinner conversation or endless musing
in editorials, this is certainly not the case for watch companies, much
less a distinguished and sure-footed player such as Patek Philippe.
7071, in our opinion, forms part of the family-owned brand’s answer to
the question. In our review of this excellent chronograph, we attempt to
read between the lugs to see what Patek Philippe is getting at.
A Compelling Proposition
Looking at the overall package, 7071 is a compelling proposition and
an entirely contemporary one, despite certain obvious Art Deco cues. A
glance at the watch should make the inspiration clear but we shall
return to that in a moment. Before getting into the design and such, we
must emphasize that this is not a dainty watch. It is fully 39mm x 35mm,
making it cushion-shaped and rather large by Patek Philippe standards.
The version we examined and shot was in 18k white gold (Ref.
7071G-011) but in 2009, it was only available in rose gold. Whatever the
case may be, Patek Philippe is only using precious materials, making
7071 quite heavy. A close relative size and weight-wise is Ref.
4934R-001.
Judging then by just the proportions and the heft, this is not the
typical watch for women. In terms of how it wears though, the mobile
lugs help a great deal to keep the watch close to the skin and offer
better adaptability to different wrist types and sizes.

The
white substance on the leaf-shaped hour and minute hands (both 18k
white gold) is some sort of luminescent material, most likely
Superluminova. There are no less than three styles of hands here, with
the counters featuring baton-shaped hands and arrow-shaped for the sweep
seconds hand
So then, 7071 vigorously rubbishes the notion that a woman’s watch
must be an exercise in tiny excesses while simultaneously embracing the
basic truth that diamonds are a must. If small and highly stylized
timepieces are what you are looking for then 7071R is not for you.
Indeed, small and stylized are typical characteristics of quartz watches
for women, including collections from Patek Philippe such as Twenty~4
and Gondolo. A quick look at the Patek Philippe complications watches
for women shows that all the watches so far are in classically solid
cases.
Up to this point, Patek Philippe is painting a very serious picture
of its ideal lady patron. This continues when we look at the styling of
the watch, which brings this review back to the aforementioned Art Deco
inspiration. While the 7071 does not harken back to any one watch in
particular, it does attempt to address the variety of shapes Patek
Philippe worked with in the 1920s and 1930s.
The case is cushion-shaped but the dial adds a circle to the picture,
with the diamond setting creating a frame for the timekeeping action.
The chronograph subdials add another dash of flair, being oval with a
proper circle within. The chronograph pushers complete the picture with
their rectangular shape offering contrast against the round crown (not
set with any stones).

The
ergonomic shape of the case and mobile lugs as well as the subtle
curves are indicative of how much thought Patek Philippe put into
executing this remarkable watch

The large Gyromax balance, with its four arms,
instantly reveals this to be a Patek Philippe movement. Note the rich
interplay between striped, beveled and polished sections
Technical Wizardry
When the watch is turned over though, it enters an entirely new
dimension – one in which men were barred entirely in 2009. Just how
special is calibre CH 29-535 PS? Well there are no less than six patents
associated with it, as listed briefly below.
- 1. Optimized tooth profile – An exclusive new tooth profile for the
chronograph mechanism. This was first introduced in 2005 in calibre CH R
27-525 PS, the split-seconds chronograph movement that delighted
enthusiasts immediately. Essentially, it is a system that negates the
risk of chronograph hand jump in both directions when the chronograph is
activated, limits the shaking of the chronograph hand, improves energy
transmission and reduces the effect of wear and tear on the chronograph
mechanism.
- 2. Enhanced penetration adjustment between the clutch and the
chronograph wheel – How the clutch delivers power to the choronograph
mechanism is very important and is basically down to how well the teeth
of the clutch wheel mesh with the teeth of the chronograph wheel. Patek
Philippe’s watchmaking team have utilized a large eccentric column wheel
cap that works directly with the tip of the clutch lever. According to
Patek Philippe, the new system improves on the penetration between the
clutch and chronograph wheel by allowing more precise adjustment.
- 3. Better synchronization between clutch lever and blocking lever –
Typically, these levers are synchronized in a clever sequential dance by
the column wheel. Patek Philippe says its engineers have fitted a
finger piece onto the clutch lever that effectively automatically
synchronizes this lever and the blocking lever. Again, the advantage is
primarily in precision of adjustment for the watchmakers because now
only one point needs to be adjusted in the control sequences. The
official press release suggests that this innovation also keeps the
chronograph hand from jumping on either activating the chronograph or
stopping it (See 1).
- 4. Pierced-out minute-counter cam – This completely new
minute-counter cam has a special slot to prevent abrupt blocking in
response to the reset command. As in (1), this reduces the quivering in
the chronograph hand.
- 5. Self-setting return to zero hammers – Mechanically adjusting the
minute hammer function is rendered moot by an intriguing self-setting
system, thus enhancing reliability at the same time.
- 6. Hammers pivoted between jewels – This one is arcane, even for us!
Apparently, there are now separate and distinct bilaterally jeweled
bearings for both seconds and minute hammers on the same axis. Each
hammer works with its own heart cam and spring. Near as we can tell,
this innovation aligns the hammers precisely in the vertical direction,
making them work with greater smoothness.

At
roughly 12 o'clock, the large cap (in mirror polish here) is one of
Patek Philippe's major innovations with calibre CH 29-535 PS. In this
image, the effect of the mobile lugs is also quite dramatic
Looking at the movement, the finish is clearly fantastic and inline
with everything demanding Patek Philippe connoisseurs expect. Every
component appears to be elegantly crafted, with traditional bridges that
are hand-chamfered, polished and decorated with Cotes de Geneve.
Machines certainly played a part here but Patek Philippe says most of
the decoration has been manually executed.
Like recent Patek Philippe mechanical movements, this one bears the
Patek Philippe Seal as opposed to the once-standard Geneva Seal or
Poincon de Geneve. This Seal applies to the entire watch, not just the
movement, and is of course a guarantee of Patek Philippe’s commitment to
excellence. One important note is that the Seal also guarantees that
the finishing has not compromised the functional and performance aspects
of the movement and the watch.
By now, you should understand that this chronograph is sublime in
action, which you really must see in person to understand. We can attest
to the smooth motion of the chronograph hand and the seemingly seamless
integration between starting, stopping and resetting the chronograph.
Everything simply pops.

This
close-up reveals more innovations with calibre CH 29-535 PS. Above the
polished cap at 12 o'clock, you can see the hammers pivoting between
jewels. In the center, the improved tooth profile is visible. Below
that, the pierced-out minute counter cam can be seen quite clearly

Seen at this distance, the beauty of calibre CH
29-535 PS as a whole is obvious and wonderfully old-school. Note also
the lovely curves of the lugs, case and chronograph pushers
We grant you that the improvements in calibre CH 29-535 PS are really
in the details but these details will matter to the lady who makes this
watch her own. Patek Philippe clearly believes that 7071 belongs on the
wrist of a precise sort of woman, or a woman who appreciates precision
craftsmanship. No issues here as the brand regularly does this in their
men’s collection.
Now the Ladies First Chronograph is a sporty watch with diamonds. The
diamonds are as integral to the watch as the chronograph mechanism and
Patek Philippe is not, to date, offering the watch without diamonds.
Each model of 7071 bears 116 full-cut diamonds of various sizes on the
dial, meticulously set and arranged to showcase graduations in size.
There are a total of 0.55 carats of stones, approximately.
Astute observers will note that no one is likely to wear the watch
while engaged in sporty actions (leather straps are all that is offered)
so, like the diamonds, the chronograph is really for personal
satisfaction and joy. Just as well of course as the pushers are rather
smooth and would be slippery if exposed to sweat and the like.

We
particularly like the arrangement of the two counters. Note that the
subdials are not on the same axis as the hours, minutes and sweep
seconds
Not that a woman who wears 7071 would ever sweat... Well, not with
the watch on... So finally, we ask ourselves again what sort of woman
does Patek Philippe imagine wearing this watch? We think it is something
like this: she never dresses head-to-toe in designer labels, unless
wearing an haute couture gown from Ellie Saab or Valentino. By
the same token, she might also be the sort of person who insists on
having her cheongsams created by the same tailor who made Maggie
Cheung’s in Wong Kar-wai’s In The Mood For Love. So, not a Commes des Garcons customer clearly.
Of course, Patek Philippe cannot control who wears their watches but a
timepiece like this one deserves someone who will love it, quite
literally. It goes without saying that this is exactly the kind of watch
you want to preserve for future generations... Or start your own
tradition with...

Note the Patek Philippe Seal crownside. Beneath this bridge are the self-setting return to zero hammers
SPECIFICATIONS
- Patek Philippe Ladies First Chronograph watch, Ref. 7071G-011
- Dimensions: 39mm x 35 mm
- Thickness: 10.95mm
- Case: 18k white gold
- Crown: Fluted in 18k white gold
- Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, 30-minute chronograph counter, sweep seconds hand
- Case back: Sapphire crystal
- Water resistance: 30 meters
- Strap: Hand-stitched alligator in blue, with blue stitching, prong buckle in 18k white gold
- Movement: Patek Philippe Manufacture calibre CH 29-535 PS,
mechanical with manual winding, Diameter: 29.60 mm) Thickness: 5.35 mm
Number of jewels: 33 Number of components: 269 Frequency: 28,800
vibrations/hour
- Power reserve: approx. 65 hours
- Patek Philippe Seal
Patek Philippe
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