Noga Vilozny
Contributing Writer
A $370 million dollar per year glass business, Riedel now celebrates its 50th year since initiating the movement of varietal-specific stemware. Each glass is mouth-blown and individually made of unadorned crystal, taking 30 people to make one glass. It’s the Riedel family that invented the varietal-specific glasses that other brands are beginning to turn towards. (For example, Robert Mondavi, is an early adopter of this technique.)
Varietal-specific stemware is responsible for the quality and intensity of a wine’s bouquet. It affects the texture of the wine by highlighting the exciting variable mouth feel, and affects the flavor by creating balanced interaction between fruit, minerality, acidity and bitter components.
Although the pieces are ergonomic and stunningly beautiful, Riedel only creates a glass if it’s optimal for the variety of grape. The intention is truly functional. To begin, sets of glasses are sent to wine producers to test wines and discover which glass best enhances the flavor and aromas of that particular varietal.
It’s helpful to compare the pieces within a particular series. The over-sized nature of “balloons” (such as the Bordeaux or Burgundy) is expressly for the purpose of allowing space for the bouquet to develop its diverse range of aromas. This is created with the standard 5 ounces of wine in mind, regardless of how “over” sized the glass may seem.
Riedel's "Sommeliers Black Tie" series of bowl-sizes and shapes reflect the different needs of each wine. A glance at the reasoning behind the choices will show how they are designed for mouth feel, directing the wine to specific areas of the tongue for the greatest pleasure of the grape variety, and other specific needs of each particular wine.
Bordeaux/Cabernet/Merlot
$125/glass, height: 10 5/8", bowl holds 30 3/8 oz.
This glass was developed to highlight the unique characteristics of great Bordeaux. The large bowl allows both young and mature wines to breath, delivering a full spectrum of aromas, and brings out the full depth of wines made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. On the palate, the texture is intensified and the finish prolonged, gently blending acidity with supple, sweet tannins.
Montrachet/Chardonnay
$95/glass, height: 7 7/8", bowl holds 18 3/8 oz.
The Montrachet glass was designed to highlight the velvety texture found in Chardonnay wines, which are monumentally complex and dense, with high levels of alcohol and moderate acidity. The wide mouth steers the wine mainly to the sourness-sensitive edges of the tongue, ensuring that the acidity is sufficiently emphasized to create a harmonious balance with the luscious fruit of the late-harvest, healthy grapes and the sweet toasty aromas of the wines aging in oak barrels. The size of the bowl allows space for the rich bouquet to develop its superbly diverse range of aromas, while minimizing the risk of it becoming over concentrated. Of course, outstanding Chardonnays from other regions and countries can also be enjoyed from this glass.
Riesling
$95/glass, height: 8 7/8", bowl holds 13 3/8 oz.
This varietal is high in acidity and balanced with residual sugar. In search of the shape that would best match this new style, Stuart Pigott, a British wine journalist specializing in Riesling, put together a tasting of the finest 1990 vintages from Germany, France and Austria. Riedel sent a selection of glasses for evaluation, suspecting - correctly - that their Chianti Classico glass might prove ideal. This tasting was subsequently repeated in London, Paris and New York, raising awareness among wine writers of the new Riesling styles. The wines were presented exclusively in this glass.
Vintage Champagne
$77/glass, height 9 5/8", bowl holds 11 5/8 oz.
The chalky soil and unique climate in the most northerly wine-growing region of France contribute to the naturally effervescent white wines for which it is so famous. The traditional coupe glass was actually developed for the particular style of sweet, bubbly dessert champagne, although fluted glasses were also used to avoid spillage when champagne was served at standing receptions. It was only around 1930 that the now familiar dry style of champagne became established. Riedel recommends serving dry champagne in flutes, since these best bring out the fine aromas of the high-quality base wines from which it is made. Many wine-lovers unfortunately are quite unaware of this superb bouquet, since champagne is all too often served either in coupes or in glasses that are too small (and thus filled to the brim) - neither of which can convey any aromas at all. This flute, filled with four ounces of champagne, concentrates the unique, yeasty bouquet of great champagnes, while emphasizing their creamy texture on the palate. The bubbles are not allowed to dominate, but are part of the overall pleasure.
Burgundy/Pinot Noir
$135/glass, height 9 3/4”, bowl holds 37 oz.
Created to reveal the glory of top-class Burgundies and Pinot Noir wines, the large bowl allows the bouquet to develop to the fullest, while the slightly flared top lip maximizes the fruit flavors by directing the wine to the front palate which ensure the fruit is highlighted while keeping the acidity of the wine in balance. Though large as well, the bowl is longer (not as short and stout as the Montrachet) and this is because of the tannins; the design balances the acidity, de-emphasizing the alcohol.
All this specialized attention comes from a 300-year tradition, as the Riedel family are glass blowers from Bohemia, and have 11 generations in the business, which is still family-owned and run, based out of Austria.
Maximilian (11th generation) now the head of Riedel, and his father Georg, are very passionate about this work. They travel around the world to give tastings and to educate people on how varietal-specific is the only way to go. Otherwise one could ruin a wonderful wine with the wrong glass, which could make it taste too tannic or too bitter. But the proper glass will enhance the floral nature of the fruits, as well as the texture and more subtle elements. A glass shape is never chosen based on trends. Rather, the choices are scientifically proven to compliment the wine.
Given this overview, there are some recommendations that Maximilian has, regarding the best way to enjoy each variety. For example, one might be surprised to learn that he recommends, especially for mature Champagne, that it be served in a Pinot Noir glass. The flute-shaped glass is definitely acceptable for younger Champagnes. However, an older vintage will benefit from decanting (as it actually improves the bubbles and flavors) as well as being enjoyed in a Pinot Noir glass because it lets the aromas open up more. After all, Champagne is a wine too. It just happens to be sparkling, and it’s difficult to smell the aromas in a small Champagne flute.
There have been vastly differing opinions on how best to enjoy Champagne. In the days of Queen Marie Antoinette and King Louis XVI, it was drunk out of martini-shaped glasses. There are some today that want to go back to that shape, but Maximilian firmly asserts that the flavors and aromas simply disappear that way. And half of tasting wine is in the aromas. So, the best is to keep with the tried and true Champagne flute shape, or a Pinot Noir glass.
The Riedels are true believers in drinking wine the way it is meant to be drunk. This comes down to every detail of glass thickness, mouth feel, etc. The designs are such that you don’t smell the alcohol; instead, you can smell the grapes, cherries or apples, and all of the intricate and subtle flavors. It makes it a more special experience for each person. Riedel glassware, as well as decanters and other specialty and custom-made items, may be purchased at http://riedel.com/ or at Tiffany's.
Hi - I saw a goblet in goblet in a magazine and thought it was Reidel, but can't find it. Does anybody know who what where??
Posted by: Renee Kadner | May 09, 2011 at 10:24 AM